Toile de Jouy pattern by Christian Dior Couture. One of the biggest challenges of a Luxury Brand is managing the tension between the preservation of heritage and a continued push to innovate. Toile de Jouy was a specific type of linen printed with romantic, pastoral patterns in a single colour—usually black, blue, or red—on an unbleached fabric. It has been around since s.XVIII. Dior masters reinterpreting, today, Toile de Jouy (my picture: Dior at Nammos Group Dubai – not to be missed).
According to an essay in the Pattern Observer, (see link in comments below👇), Toile de Jouy originated in Jouy-en-Josas, a town outside of Paris, in the late 1700s. Christophe-Phillipe Oberkampf created the pastoral designs in collaboration with the designer Jean Baptiste Huet. They were influenced by Rococo art and its romantic connotations. Although the word “toile” means fabric, it has evolved to also refer to the original design aesthetic of the fabric. For the last years, what started as a print for wallpaper can be found on clothing, accessories and glassware.
Innovation, evolution and disruption should be part of the journey of a Luxury brand. I love seeing Luxury brands experimenting into meta worlds (Decentraland, The Sandbox…). Dressing avatars on gaming (creating so-called skins for the game characters – Louis Vuitton was a pioneer). Or having “affairs” with Premium brand on a “lower attitude”, to add new values and reach (seducing younger generations). Using AR, VR, AI. Embracing circular economy and moving into a more inclusive approach (bravo Kering – Gucci).
BUT still, in the REAL Luxury… heritage matters. Do you agree?